Chapter 4: Grading

The PAD System Pattern Design offers tools and options for user to grade pieces, facilitate user to adjust piece sizes.

Size Setting

Before grading the pieces, user needs to set sizes.

How to set sizes

  1. Select Menu [Grade] - [Working Sizes...];

  2. The dialog box appears, enter total sizes and click [Apply] button, system will generate the sizes and take the middle size as Medium automatically.

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  3. User can set Medium size, or modify the size number/special/break(XS,S,M,L,XL). User can set maximum of 5 break groups.

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    For example:

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Ways to grade

The PAD System Pattern Design offers three ways to grade pieces.

Grade in X,Y

  1. Select the desired segment/point(or more points to be graded in the same values);
  2. Select Menu [Grade]-[Grade Info](or press hot key Ctrl+J), to open the Grade Info Dialog Box;

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User can use regular grading list for regular grading (step value between each size group is the same):

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User can use irregular grading list for irregular grading (steps between each size is different):

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Note

The irregular grading list also can be used for regular grading. However, irregular grading can be performed in irregular grading list only.

Grading Arrows

By using Grading Arrows, user doesn’t have to recognize the grading direction depending on the negative or positve value. User can select desired step value(positive), and click the arrow button to control the grading direction.

Open the window

Before using Grading Arrows, user needs to open the window:

Click Menu [View] - [Show Widget] - [Grading Arrows]

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Perform grading by Grading Arrows

  1. Select the point(s)/segment;

  2. Select step value;

    Note

    Allow user to enter step value as requried.

    1. Pull the menu bar to bottom;

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    2. Select [Edit], open the [Evolution] Dialog Box;

    3. Select unit, and then click [New]. Enter deisred step value and click [OK].

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    In V7.0, user can enter desired step value directly.

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  3. Select the desired size to be graded;

  4. Click the arrow button to perform grading;

    Note

    It increases according to the current step value each time you click the arrow button

    For example:

    to grade the hem of the T-shirt:

    1. Select the desired hem line:

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    2. Select desired step vale (enter it directly in V7.0)

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    3. Select the size to be graded

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    4. Click the arrow button to perform grading:

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Introduction of Grading Arrows Menu

  1. Show:

    Right-click the list to select [Show Special] or [Show Size Color].

    Show Special: displays the customized name that user may have assigned to each size in the Grade Working Sizes dialog box:

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    Show Size Color: to show the size colr set by user

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  2. gr_image019 Modify Grading: Reset

    Restore the grading of the selected size(s) to zero.

    How to do:

    1. select the desired size
    2. click gr_image019 Reset

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  3. Distance/Step

    gr_image021: the difference between Medium and other sizes;

    gr_image022: the difference between two neighbouring sizes

  4. Regular/Irregular

    gr_image023: Regular Grading

    gr_image024: Irrgular Grading

  5. Grade/Modification

    gr_image025 Black eye icon: Cumulative of the grading.

    Add value to existing grading, you don’t have to delete the former value.

    gr_image026 Red eye icon: Current modification.

    Temporarily hide the graded value, the new-entered value is added to the graded value.

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Grading Library

Allow user to create a grading library with the frequently-used grading evolutions. User can use it directly.

For example:

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Click the small arrow in front of the preset grading item, user can see the specific values.

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Introduction of the content in Grading Library

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Create a grading library

  1. Click drop-down menu [New...], open the Save Dialog Box

  2. Enter file name and click [OK] to save the file

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  3. Click the Grading Library Menu gr_image036 New, then enter the name and desired grading value, click [OK];

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    or open the graded piece, copy its grading value to the library

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Grade piece by applying grading library

After building a grading library, user can use the grading library to grade piece direcly, which increases the efficiency of pattern-making.

How to do:

  1. Select the desired point or segment;

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  2. Click the corresponding grading item in the library, like: Hem

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  3. Repeat the former step to grade other point or segment

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Grading Tools

PAD System provides 9 grading tools for user to modify the grading nest.

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To view the grading tools and the grading nest, user needs to select the [Grade View] in [View] Menu.

gr_image046 Symmetry Grading

As following picture shown, the middle point on the front hem is graded wrongly and needs to be modified. User can use this tool to modify it:

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To symmetrize the grading

  1. Activate the piece;
  2. Select gr_image046 tool;
  3. Click the desired point;
  4. A line representing the axis of symmetry appears. Drag this line to the desired position, left-click.
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To symmetrize the grading with precise value

  1. Select gr_image046 tool;
  2. Hold down Alt (Windows) or Option (Mac) key, click the desired point;
  3. The Grading Symmetry dialog box appears, select the appropriate radio button or enter the value of the desired angle in the text box:

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gr_image051 Rotate Grading

Allows user to modify the grading nest by freehand rotation of the grading around the medium point.

Rotate grading

  1. Activate the piece;

  2. Select gr_image051 tool;

  3. Click the desired point, click somewhere in the working area and hold down the left mouse button. A line appears. Move this line to the desired position.

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Rotate grading by precise value

  1. Activate the piece;
  2. Select gr_image051 tool;
  3. Hold down Alt (Windows) or Option (Mac) key, left-click the desired point;
  4. The Grading Rotation dialog box opens, select the appropriate radio button or enter the value of the desired angle in the text box, and click [OK].

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gr_image054 Manipulate Grading

Allows user to adjust the grading nest by freehand.

  1. Activate the piece;
  2. Select gr_image054 tool;
  3. Click the desired point. A small point appears on each grading line;
  4. Select and drag the size point(s) to the required position.

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gr_image056 Copy/Paste Grading

Allow user to copy grading evolutions from one point to another (or other points).

  1. Activate the piece;
  2. Select gr_image056 tool;
  3. Click the desired point to copy its information;
  4. Select the appropriate radio buttons and/or edit the dialog box, and click [OK];
  5. Click the point where you want to paste the copied Grading Information; hold down the Shift key to apply these coordinates on more than one point and on other shapes.
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gr_image058 Parallel Grading

Allows user to assign a Parallel Grading to selected elements.

  1. Select the segment;

  2. Select gr_image058 tool;

  3. Click one side of the segment

    Note

    the side is where positive values need to be assigned.

  4. The Parallel Grading dialog box opens, enter grading value;

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Parallel Grading Dialog Box:

  • Size: iApply if select them
  • Distance: Double-click the number to edit it
  • Break: Select to display the step value between neighbouring sizes; if deselect, it won’t display the step value
  • Show Special: Select to display special name; if deselectit, it will show break
  • Check / Uncheck: Select or deselect sizes on which the Parallel Grading should or should not be applied
  • Calculate Extremities Intersection: Select it to calculate extremities intersection, otherwise it won’t calculate extrmities intersection.
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gr_image061 Align Grading

Allows user to change the alignment of a grading evolution.

Example:

  1. Activate the piece;

  2. Select gr_image061 tool;

  3. Click the point (#1) you wish to adjust, then click another point (#2) as reference point;

  4. Click point #2 and then point #1

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gr_image064 Copy/Paste Path Grading

Allow user to copy the grading evolution of one path and pastes it to another path.

Note

The path of points you want to copy the grading of and the path of points you want to paste the copied grading to must have same regular points.

  1. Select the path you want to copy the grading of and the path you want to paste the grading to;
  2. Select gr_image064 tool;
  3. Click any extremity of the copied path, and a cross appears;
  4. Click the corresponding extremity of another path.

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gr_image066 Smooth Path Grading

Allow user to apply grading on a selected piece. User can apply grading according to the X or Y axis alone or on both axes simultaneously. This tool facilitates user to smooth the graded curve.

How to do:

  1. Select the desired curve;

  2. Select gr_image066 tool;

  3. Click an extremity point;

  4. Select the appropriate radios;

    Note

    As for the armhole or neckline with quite deep curvature, user can select Distribute Respecting the Path’s Enclosing Rectangle.

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gr_image068 Distribute Grading

To distribute the grading inside a partial selection, take armhole as an example:

  1. Select the desired segment;
  2. Select gr_image068 tool;
  3. Click two points that represent the enclosing rectangle within which the grading has to be distributed;
  4. Select the appropriate option, click [OK].

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To distribute the grading inside a group like style line, pocket or pleat, take pocket as an example:

  1. Select the desired element;
  2. Select gr_image068 tool;
  3. Hold down Alt (Windows) or Option (Mac) key, the pointer becomes a cross, then click a selected point;
  4. Select the desired options in the dialog box:

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Check Grading Nest

To check the grading nest aligning a point/segment

After grading, user may want to check the grading nest aligning a point/segment.

Note

All operation involving grading need to be done in [Grade View]. Select it in [View] Menu.

How to align:

  1. Select the desired point/segment;
  2. Hold down Alt + Ctrl (Windows) or Option + Command (Mac) key, move the cursor to the Pointer tool icon, the cursor becomes a cross; then left-click the icon, the alignment is finished.

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