Chapter 4: Grading

The PAD System Pattern Design offers tools and options for user to grade pieces, facilitate user to adjust piece sizes.

Size Setting

Before grading the pieces, user needs to set sizes.

How to set sizes

1. Select Menu [Grade] - [Working Sizes...];

2. The dialog box appears, enter total sizes and click [Apply] button, system will generate the sizes and take the middle size as Medium automatically.

   

3. User can set Medium size, or modify the size number/special/break(XS,S,M,L,XL). User can set maximum of 5 break groups.

   

   For example:

   

Ways to grade

The PAD System Pattern Design offers three ways to grade pieces.

Grade in X,Y

1. Select the desired segment/point(or more points to be graded in the same values);
2. Select Menu [Grade]-[Grade Info](or press hot key Ctrl+J), to open the Grade Info Dialog Box;

User can use regular grading list for regular grading (step value between each size group is the same):

User can use irregular grading list for irregular grading (steps between each size is different):

備註

The irregular grading list also can be used for regular grading. However, irregular grading can be performed in irregular grading list only.

Grading Arrows

By using Grading Arrows, user doesn’t have to recognize the grading direction depending on the negative or positve value. User can select desired step value(positive), and click the arrow button to control the grading direction.

Open the window

Before using Grading Arrows, user needs to open the window:

Click Menu [View] - [Show Widget] - [Grading Arrows]

Perform grading by Grading Arrows

1. Select the point(s)/segment;

2. Select step value;

   備註

   Allow user to enter step value as requried.

   1. Pull the menu bar to bottom;

      

   2. Select [Edit], open the [Evolution] Dialog Box;

   3. Select unit, and then click [New]. Enter deisred step value and click [OK].

      

   In V7.0, user can enter desired step value directly.

   

3. Select the desired size to be graded;

4. Click the arrow button to perform grading;

   備註

   It increases according to the current step value each time you click the arrow button

   For example:

   to grade the hem of the T-shirt:

   1. Select the desired hem line:

      

   2. Select desired step vale (enter it directly in V7.0)

      

   3. Select the size to be graded

      

   4. Click the arrow button to perform grading:

      

Introduction of Grading Arrows Menu

1. Show:

   Right-click the list to select [Show Special] or [Show Size Color].

   Show Special: displays the customized name that user may have assigned to each size in the Grade Working Sizes dialog box:

   

   Show Size Color: to show the size colr set by user

   

2. Modify Grading: Reset

   Restore the grading of the selected size(s) to zero.

   How to do:

   1. select the desired size
   2. click Reset

   

3. Distance/Step

   : the difference between Medium and other sizes;

   : the difference between two neighbouring sizes

4. Regular/Irregular

   : Regular Grading

   : Irrgular Grading

5. Grade/Modification

   Black eye icon: Cumulative of the grading.

   Add value to existing grading, you don’t have to delete the former value.

   Red eye icon: Current modification.

   Temporarily hide the graded value, the new-entered value is added to the graded value.

   

Grading Library

Allow user to create a grading library with the frequently-used grading evolutions. User can use it directly.

For example:

Click the small arrow in front of the preset grading item, user can see the specific values.

Drop-down menu

備註

Examples:

Introduction of the content in Grading Library

Create a grading library

1. Click drop-down menu [New...], open the Save Dialog Box

2. Enter file name and click [OK] to save the file

   

3. Click the Grading Library Menu New, then enter the name and desired grading value, click [OK];

   

   or open the graded piece, copy its grading value to the library

   

   

Grade piece by applying grading library

After building a grading library, user can use the grading library to grade piece direcly, which increases the efficiency of pattern-making.

How to do:

1. Select the desired point or segment;

   

2. Click the corresponding grading item in the library, like: Hem

   

3. Repeat the former step to grade other point or segment

   

Grading Tools

PAD System provides 9 grading tools for user to modify the grading nest.

To view the grading tools and the grading nest, user needs to select the [Grade View] in [View] Menu.

Symmetry Grading

As following picture shown, the middle point on the front hem is graded wrongly and needs to be modified. User can use this tool to modify it:

To symmetrize the grading

1. Activate the piece;
2. Select tool;
3. Click the desired point;
4. A line representing the axis of symmetry appears. Drag this line to the desired position, left-click.

To symmetrize the grading with precise value

1. Select tool;
2. Hold down Alt (Windows) or Option (Mac) key, click the desired point;
3. The Grading Symmetry dialog box appears, select the appropriate radio button or enter the value of the desired angle in the text box:

Rotate Grading

Allows user to modify the grading nest by freehand rotation of the grading around the medium point.

Rotate grading

1. Activate the piece;

2. Select tool;

3. Click the desired point, click somewhere in the working area and hold down the left mouse button. A line appears. Move this line to the desired position.

   

Rotate grading by precise value

1. Activate the piece;
2. Select tool;
3. Hold down Alt (Windows) or Option (Mac) key, left-click the desired point;
4. The Grading Rotation dialog box opens, select the appropriate radio button or enter the value of the desired angle in the text box, and click [OK].

Manipulate Grading

Allows user to adjust the grading nest by freehand.

1. Activate the piece;
2. Select tool;
3. Click the desired point. A small point appears on each grading line;
4. Select and drag the size point(s) to the required position.

Copy/Paste Grading

Allow user to copy grading evolutions from one point to another (or other points).

1. Activate the piece;
2. Select tool;
3. Click the desired point to copy its information;
4. Select the appropriate radio buttons and/or edit the dialog box, and click [OK];
5. Click the point where you want to paste the copied Grading Information; hold down the Shift key to apply these coordinates on more than one point and on other shapes.

Parallel Grading

Allows user to assign a Parallel Grading to selected elements.

1. Select the segment;

2. Select tool;

3. Click one side of the segment

   備註

   the side is where positive values need to be assigned.

4. The Parallel Grading dialog box opens, enter grading value;

   

Parallel Grading Dialog Box:

• Size: iApply if select them
• Distance: Double-click the number to edit it
• Break: Select to display the step value between neighbouring sizes; if deselect, it won’t display the step value
• Show Special: Select to display special name; if deselectit, it will show break
• Check / Uncheck: Select or deselect sizes on which the Parallel Grading should or should not be applied
• Calculate Extremities Intersection: Select it to calculate extremities intersection, otherwise it won’t calculate extrmities intersection.

Align Grading

Allows user to change the alignment of a grading evolution.

Example:

1. Activate the piece;

2. Select tool;

3. Click the point (#1) you wish to adjust, then click another point (#2) as reference point;

4. Click point #2 and then point #1

   

   

Copy/Paste Path Grading

Allow user to copy the grading evolution of one path and pastes it to another path.

備註

The path of points you want to copy the grading of and the path of points you want to paste the copied grading to must have same regular points.

1. Select the path you want to copy the grading of and the path you want to paste the grading to;
2. Select tool;
3. Click any extremity of the copied path, and a cross appears;
4. Click the corresponding extremity of another path.

Smooth Path Grading

Allow user to apply grading on a selected piece. User can apply grading according to the X or Y axis alone or on both axes simultaneously. This tool facilitates user to smooth the graded curve.

How to do:

1. Select the desired curve;

2. Select tool;

3. Click an extremity point;

4. Select the appropriate radios;

   備註

   As for the armhole or neckline with quite deep curvature, user can select Distribute Respecting the Path’s Enclosing Rectangle.

Distribute Grading

To distribute the grading inside a partial selection, take armhole as an example:

1. Select the desired segment;
2. Select tool;
3. Click two points that represent the enclosing rectangle within which the grading has to be distributed;
4. Select the appropriate option, click [OK].

To distribute the grading inside a group like style line, pocket or pleat, take pocket as an example:

1. Select the desired element;
2. Select tool;
3. Hold down Alt (Windows) or Option (Mac) key, the pointer becomes a cross, then click a selected point;
4. Select the desired options in the dialog box:

Check Grading Nest

To check the grading nest aligning a point/segment

After grading, user may want to check the grading nest aligning a point/segment.

備註

All operation involving grading need to be done in [Grade View]. Select it in [View] Menu.

How to align:

1. Select the desired point/segment;
2. Hold down Alt + Ctrl (Windows) or Option + Command (Mac) key, move the cursor to the Pointer tool icon, the cursor becomes a cross; then left-click the icon, the alignment is finished.